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Makes 4 servings 
Time: About 1 1/2 hours, 
largely unattended

These filled, turnover-like crepes are quite satisfying, so one per person is enough. Of course, you can make eight crepes and simply double the other ingredients.

1/4 cup white flour
1 cup buckwheat flour
2 eggs
1/2 cup milk
1 cup water
Neutral oil, such as canola or grapeseed, as needed
2 cups crabmeat
2 tablespoons Mayonnaise
2 teaspoons lemon juice
1 tablespoon minced tarragon, plus a few sprigs for garnish
Salt and cayenne pepper to taste
2 egg yolks, beaten
4 tablespoons butter, preferably salted
4 lemon wedges

1. Combine the first five ingredients in a bowl; whisk until smooth and let sit for at least an hour.

2. Heat a 10-inch non-stick skillet over high heat for about 2 minutes. Add a thin layer of oil and wipe it out, leaving just a trace behind. Pour in 1/4 cup of the batter and swirl it around so that it coats the bottom of the pan completely; pour the excess back into the remaining batter. Adjust the heat so that the batter dries on top before it burns on the bottom; it will be ready to turn in 1 to 2 minutes. Turn and cook the second side for about 30 seconds. Repeat to use up the batter, adding more oil to the pan if necessary (it may not be); you need 4 near-perfect crepes for this recipe. Let cool to room temperature.

3. Mix the crab with the mayonnaise, lemon juice, and tarragon. Season with salt and cayenne.

4. Put 1/4 of the crab mixture in the center of each crepe. Brush the edge of the top half of the crepe with egg yolk, then fold the crepe over onto itself like an apple turnover.

5. Put half the butter in a 10-inch skillet and turn the heat to medium. When the butter melts, add 2 of the crepes to the pan. Cook 3 or 4 minutes, until nicely browned, then turn and cook the other side. Repeat with the remaining 2 crepes.

6. Serve with lemon wedges, garnished with tarragon