The meat on a rack  of young spring lamb is so succulent that it virtually disappears in your mouth. In this preparation the sweet, rich lamb is balanced with a sharp edge of mustard, both in the sauce and in the spätzle. The vegetables are a satisfying, earthy element that help make this a nicely rounded dish.

Serves 4
2 trimmed racks of lamb
5 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons chopped, mixed herbs (e.g., rosemary, thyme, etc.)
4 to 5 cups assorted seasonal vegetables (e.g., beets, carrots, corn, mushrooms, squash, peas)
4 tablespoons butter
1 cup Vegetable Stock (see Appendix)
Salt and pepper
Mustard Spätzle (recipe follows)
Mustard and Thyme Reduction (recipe follows)
Herb Oil (see Appendix)

METHOD  Rub the lamb with 3 tablespoons of olive oil, sprinkle with 1 tablespoon herbs, and marinate overnight. Heat a large ovenproof pan over medium-high heat, add 2 tablespoons of olive oil, and sear the lamb on all sides. Transfer to a 450-degree oven and roast for 8 to 12 minutes, depending on the size of the racks and the desired degree of doneness. Remove the racks when they are a little underdone and allow them to rest for 4 to 5 minutes. They will continue to cook and the meat will have the chance to soften up.

For the vegetable ragoût, peel and slice the vegetables as appropriate. Combine 2 tablespoons of butter, Vegetable Stock, remaining herbs, and a little salt and pepper in a pot and stew the vegetables for 2 or 3 minutes over medium heat until they are just cooked through.

Just before serving, sauté the cooked Mustard Spätzle briefly in 2 tablespoons of butter to create a very desirable crispy effect.

ASSEMBLY   Put a mound of vegetable ragoût on each plate. Slice the rack into chops and place 3 or 4 around the vegetables. (If desired, the meat can be cut off the bone and sliced.) Drizzle the reduction sauce around the edges. Sprinkle a small amount of Herb Oil over the reduction sauce and strew spätzle onto each plate as well.

Mustard Spätzle
1 cup less 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons whole wheat flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 1/2 teaspoons stone-ground mustard
1 1/2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
1 egg, beaten
1/2 to 3/4 cup milk

METHOD  In a mixing bowl, combine everything but the milk. Add enough milk to make a somewhat stiff batter. Cover the dough, refrigerate, and let rest for 1 to 2 hours. To cook, drop 1/2 teaspoons of batter from a spoon or pastry bag into simmering, lightly salted water, or put the batter through a colander or a special sliding cutter designed for making spätzle. Cook for about 1 minute or until done. Strain and set aside.

Mustard and Thyme Reduction
1 onion, peeled and chopped
1 stalk celery, peeled and chopped
1 carrot, peeled and chopped
1 green bell pepper, seeded and chopped
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon butter
2 cups red wine
4 quarts Lamb Stock (see Appendix)
2 tablespoons mustard seed
1 bunch thyme

METHOD  In a medium sauté pan, sweat the onion, celery, carrot, and pepper in the olive oil and butter until they are just beginning to brown. Deglaze with red wine and reduce down to a glaze. Add the Lamb Stock and the mustard seed and slowly reduce to about 1 quart. Strain and continue to reduce to 1 cup. Steep the thyme in the reduction for 40 seconds or so and strain. Serve warm.

Wine Notes

In this classical preparation, the lamb dominates the flavor profile, though the mustard and thyme add a lively zip. A classical wine seems in order as well, and none fits the bill better than a mature Bordeaux. A great Pauillac, such as Château Lynch-Bages 1982 or Château Pichon-Lalande 1978, would be a fine accompaniment, although many top-quality Napa Valley Cabernets have achieved a stature of lovely maturity. Examples include Château Montelena 1978, Heitz Martha’s Vineyard 1974, and Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars "Cask 23" 1979.

Copyright ©1999 Charlie Trotter's.