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The story
of Fonda San Miguel begins more than three decades ago, when Tom Gilliland and
Miguel Ravago met and combined their mutual passion for authentic Mexican
cuisine. Today, the Austin, Texas landmark is widely recognized as one of the
best Mexican restaurants in the country, and continues to earn national
recognition for its pioneering spirit, unique décor and remarkable food.
Tom and Miguel opened their new venture in Houston, Texas, in 1972. They called
it the San Angel Inn. With help from Miguel’s grandmother, who traveled to
Houston from her home in Phoenix, Arizona, they set up their kitchen, and were
soon delighting the “who’s who” of Houston society with their authentic Mexican
fare. Fortuitously, renowned cookbook author and expert in Mexican cuisine Diana
Kennedy was a restaurant regular, taking Tom and Miguel under her wing.
On a quest for a larger space, Tom and Miguel moved
their restaurant to Austin in 1975, where they found a large, hacienda-style
building. Renamed Fonda San Miguel, the restaurant opened on November 25, 1975,
bucking the widely popular trend at the time of serving Tex-Mex
food. Instead, Tom and Miguel were determined to continue their tradition of
serving authentic regional dishes from the Mexican interior.
The process of educating their hungry customers was not always easy, nor was
finding some of the more exotic ingredients for their recipes. Yet as Fonda’s
business grew, so too did the strong demand for their authentic Mexican
ingredients, prompting several local stores to begin stocking them regularly.
By the late 1970’s, Fonda San Miguel had become a genuine hit,
attracting customers from across the state and the nation. In order to create
the proper showcase for their food, Tom and Miguel decided to undertake their
first major remodeling project. Huge, hand-carved wooden doors from the state of Guanajuato welcomed guests to an expanded interior, replete with a patio bar
with bright flowers and lush tropical plants. Punched-tin lantern light fixtures
from San Miguel de Allende were hung in the main dining room, and rustic Mexican
leather equipales replaced dining room chairs.
It was during this same period that Fonda San Miguel began to develop a
reputation for its distinctive Mexican artwork. Tom began collecting pieces by
some of Mexico’s most renowned artists — Rufino Tamayo, Francisco Toledo,
Arnulfo Mendoza, Jose Fors, and many more. Tom extended the importance placed on
fine art to the menus, commissioning some of Mexico’s finest painters and
graphic artists to decorate them.
In the mid-eighties, Tom and Miguel introduced the hugely popular
Hacienda Sunday Brunch Buffet, a beautiful display of banquet tables topped with
fresh fruits, flowers, and a vast collection of imported Mexican pottery. The
striking sight was matched only by the mouth-watering selection of Mexican
dishes available — cold appetizers, salads, hot side dishes, savory entrees, and
sumptuous desserts. The brunch is still regularly voted the best in the city. In
1993, Fonda San Miguel was invited to present at the prestigious James Beard
House in New York City. That dinner generated such a positive response that Tom
and Miguel were invited to return in 1996. The restaurant has continued to earn
national recognition for its pioneering and adventurous spirit.
In 2005, to celebrate the restaurant’s thirtieth anniversary, Tom and Miguel
published
FONDA SAN MIGUEL: Thirty Years of Food and Art. Winner of the 2006 IACP
Cookbook Award for Design, this beautiful cookbook brings the spirit of the
restaurant, along with their famous recipes, to the home kitchen.
Today, Fonda San Miguel is a prime destination restaurant, a place where
culinary connoisseurs, art lovers, visiting celebrities, and guests of the local
Mexican consulate all come together. After thirty-one years, Fonda San Miguel
continues to celebrate its distinctive cuisine, its colorful history, and the
transforming influence it has had on the culinary palate of America. |