Makes 8 first-course servings

Chinese food in New Orleans? Absolutely. Light and crispy on the outside, moist and spicy on the inside, these egg rolls are a snap to make, using egg roll skins available in supermarkets. The twist is the Creole-seasoned crawfish, but if you like, you can substitute either lobster meat or shrimp.

1 cup Hot Sesame Drizzle (recipe follows)
2 teaspoons olive oil
1/2 cup finely diced onions
1/2 cup finely diced celery
1 cup, finely shredded napa or white cabbage
2 teaspoons minced garlic
1/2 cup finely grated carrots
1/2 pound (1 cup) peeled crawfish tails
2 tablespoons sesame oil
2 teaspoons untoasted sesame seeds
1 teaspoon salt 6 turns freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon Emeril's Creole Seasoning
4 large eggs, lightly beaten in 2 separate bowls (2 eggs per bowl)
8 egg roll skins
6 cups vegetable oil
1/4 cup dry mustard, combined with 1/4 cup water

1. Prepare the Hot Sesame Drizzle, and set aside.

2. Heat the olive oil in a medium skillet over high heat. When the oil is hot, add the onions, celery, and cabbage and saute for 2 minutes. Add the garlic and carrots and saute, stirring and shaking the skillet, for 1 minute. Add the crawfish tails and saute, shaking the skillet, for 1 minute. Remove from the heat and pour the mixture into a bowl.

3. To the crawfish mixture, add the sesame oil, sesame seeds, salt, pepper, Creole Seasoning, and 2 of the eggs.

4. Lay the egg roll skins on a flat surface and brush them with some of the remaining egg. Place one-eighth of the filling on one end of each skin, leaving a 1/4-inch border at the top and sides, and roll up, tucking in the ends after the first roll.

5. Heat the vegetable oil in a large saucepan or wok over high heat. When the oil is very hot, about 375°F, fry the egg rolls until they're crisp and golden brown, for about 2 minutes. Drain thoroughly on paper towels.

6. While the egg rolls are frying, reheat the Hot Sesame Drizzle over low heat, stirring once or twice.

7. To serve, paint each of 8 dishes with a zigzag of mustard. Sprinkle 2 tablespoons of the Hot Sesame Drizzle over the mustard, and top with an egg roll.

From Emeril's New New Orleans Cooking by Emeril Lagasse. HarperCollins Publishers. Use by permission.