Risotto della Lunigiana
Mushroom, Sausage, and Artichoke Risotto
The summer I was thirteen my father started taking me to
Lunigiana, an area where Tuscany borders Liguria and Emilia Romagna. He made
the trip to buy fresh porcini and Parmesan cheese, but I went along because it
was the only place to find this version of risotto. To make it, I recommend
cremini or shiitake mushrooms, since fresh porcini are almost impossible to
find here. In fact, the recipe is relatively adaptable, though I have provided
the full list of ingredients. Most people omit something, and you can swap
fresh artichokes for frozen hearts. Just don't leave out the sausage and the
porcini.
Makes 4 to 6 servings
Ingredients:
1 lemon
3 ounces (1 cup) baby artichokes (or globe artichoke bottoms and hearts or
frozen artichoke hearts)
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 cup thinly sliced onions
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1/4 cup finely chopped fresh Italian parsley
1/2 pound Italian sausage links, casings removed and crumbled
1/2 pound fresh porcini, cremini, or shiitake mushrooms, sliced
2 quarts chicken stock (recipe follows)
2 cups Carnaroli or Arborio rice
3/4 cup dry white wine
1 cup green peas, fresh or frozen
salt
fresh ground black pepper
1 tablespoon butter
2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
Preparation:
Fill a bowl with water. Cut the lemon in half and squeeze
the juice into the water. Add the squeezed lemon halves to the water, too.
If you are using baby artichokes, peel the outer leaves from the artichokes
until you reach the part where the leaves are mostly a creamy yellow. Cut
the top inch off the artichoke and trim away the stem so that you are left
with a golf ball-sized heart. Quarter the hearts and put in the acidulated
water. (For globe artichokes, remove the tough outer leaves and cut the
artichokes into wedges. Remove the choke and the soft curly leaves above it.
Put in the water.) Set aside.
Coat the bottom of a large skillet with the olive oil. Add the sliced
onions, garlic, and 2 tablespoons of the parsley and sauté over medium heat
until the garlic starts to color, about 5 minutes.
Add the sausage and mushrooms, to the skillet and sauté until the sausage is
cooked through and slightly brown, 4 to 5 minutes.
Bring the chicken stock to a simmer in a saucepan and turn off the heat.
Add the rice to the skillet and toast for 5 to 6 minutes, stirring
constantly to prevent sticking and burning. Drain the artichokes. Add them,
along with the wine. Cook, stirring frequently, until the rice absorbs all
of the wine.
Add enough warm chicken stock to cover the rice and cook stirring
frequently, until the chicken stock has absorbed the rice. Repeat this step
with the chicken stock two more times, adding the peas after the rice has
cooked for 15 minutes. Check the doneness of the rice, add a little more
chicken stock, and cook a little longer if needed. Adjust the seasonings.
When the rice is cooked to the proper consistency, firm but not crunchy,
turn off the heat. Stir in the butter, Parmesan, and remaining 2 tablespoons
parsley. Serve immediately.
Wine Suggestion:
It might be hard to track one down, but look for a wine
from Lunigiana; otherwise, go with a Tuscan Chardonnay, or a light young
red, served chilled, like Casamatta, which is made from Sangiovese grapes.
Brodo di Pollo
Chicken Stock
Makes 2 quarts
Ingredients:
3 to 4 pounds chicken legs
4 cups coarsely chopped celery
3 cups coarsely chopped carrots
1 1/2 cups coarsely chopped onions
1 tablespoon salt
Preparation:
Combine all ingredients along with 4 quarts of water in a
large pot and bring to a simmer. Cook, partially covered, for 1 hour. Add
salt to taste and simmer, partially covered, for another hour. Strain into a
large bowl, pressing on the chicken and vegetables to extract the liquid.
Let cool.
